Spring Break in South Ahh-mer-ica!
@ Bin 604 Wine Sellers

South America: Facts and Opinions
1.Oceans of mediocre wine, from both Argentina and Chile (the latter producing about one-fourth as much as Argentina and only four countries producing more wine than Argentina), flood the market annually. The culprit is vineyard yields so high that achieving flavor interest is nigh impossible. However, there are a handful of producers dedicated to quality (Catena, Montes and Cousino Macul are three) and their wines can offer a superb price-to-quality ratio.

2. Chile, perhaps because of its geographic isolation, has never experienced phylloxera. This allows vineyards to be planted with far less labor and cost. In Chile, no grape variety stands out as being of superior quality. Carmeniere, a varietal once grown in Bordeaux, is rather unique but standard in quality to this point. Mountain grown Syrah may offer Chile’s best opportunity to do something special.

3. The most widely planted grape in Argentina is Bonarda. This varietal originated in Italy’s Lombardy region but it frequently fails to ripen. In Argentina, Bonarda flourishes but lacks distinctive qualities and is used mainly for blending.

4. The varietal which puts Argentina on the map is Malbec. This varietal was once a staple in Bordeaux but is nearly extinct there now. In Argentina, Malbec is distinctive, capable of producing wines which can be ripe and lush and able to improve with extended cellaring.

5. Torrontes is the nearest thing to an indigenous white variety in Argentina and produces a wine with distinctive perfume which seems to be a hypothetical blend of Muscat, Gewurztraminer, and Viognier.

The Wines:

1. Cousino Macul Riesling “Dona Isadora” 2002 $7.99
This great value in Riesling is more Australian influenced than German or Alsatian. It’s a dry style meant to accompany food.

2. Crios de Susana Balbo Torrontes 2003, Cafayate, Argentina $14.99
As noted above, this is Argentina’s most individualistic white wine and this is a superb rendition. The aromatics lead the taster to expect something sweet but, in fact, the wine is totally dry.

3. Luca Chardonnay 2002, Mendoza, Argentina $31.99
Luca Catena’s Chardonnay is boldly flavored with plenty of new oak and ripe tropical fruit flavors. And the custom made, heavy glass bottle will make you a winner in any bar fight even when it’s empty.

4. Elsa Malbec 2001, Argentina $7.99
The first of six Malbecs in the tasting. It’s light and a bit outclassed by the heavyweights but it’s a terrific wine for the money with its spicy flavors and easy drinkability.

5. Altos Las Hormigas Malbec 2001, Argentina $10.99
This is our best-selling Malbec because of its super QPR. The wine offers nice spice, concentrated flavors, and plenty of guts. Why would you drink a $10 Merlot when you can have Malbec instead?

6. El Felino Malbec 2002, Argentina $14.99
This Malbec was made by American consultant Paul Hobbs, one of the first to go to South America with some new ideas. This wine offers additional complexity and body compared to the first two Malbecs.

7. Catena Malbec 2001, Argentina $22.99
The Catena family dominates premium wine production in Argentina. They deserve much credit for their focus on quality at the expense of quantity. This is a supple Malbec with ripe flavors and should drink well for 8-10 years.

8. Tikal “Amorio” Malbec 2001, Mendoza, Argentina $29.99
Tikal is a special project of Vine Connections, a small California importer, who was able to persuade several of Argentina’s leading growers to produce small amounts of deluxe wine for the USA marker. This large-scaled Malbec has the stuffing for extended cellaring but is great now with some prime beef.

9. Bramare Malbec 1999, Argentina $37.99
This is Paul Hobbs top-of-the-line Malbec. Like a top Bordeaux or California Cabernet blend, it will cellar effortlessly for 10+ years.

10. Crios de Susana Balbo Syrah/Bonarda 2001, Argentina $14.99
This is another of the Vine Connection wines, an entry level Syrah blended with Bonarda which is better than most anything from California costing less than $25.

11. Crios de Susana Balbo Cabernet Sauvignon 2001, Argentina $14.99
Argentina also can produce first-class Cabernet as this entry level wine demonstrates.

12. Catena Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon 2001, Argentina “Agrelo Vineyards” $20.99
This is a step up on the quality ladder. The wine offers attractive black currants, good structure, and a lengthy aftertaste.