Shiraz/Syrah Tasting
@ Bin 604 Wine Sellers

Some Basic Facts:

1. Shiraz and Syrah are one and the same. Australians, for reasons we can only speculate about, call what everyone else refers to as Syrah, Shiraz.

2. The finest Syrah/Shiraz is currently grown in France’s northern Rhone Valley and the regions of Barossa and McLaren Vale in Australia. California is making strides but the finest examples tend to be expensive and the less pricey ones insipid.

3. The best values in Syrah/Shiraz are from Australia hands-down. There are numerous tasty, crowd-pleasing Shiraz in the $10 - $15 price range that the Rhone and California cannot touch. Two reasons for Australia’s advantage is the relative weakness of their dollar vis a vis the euro and the nature of their viticulture, i.e, the fact that the country is so wide open (and land so inexpensive) that huge volumes of quality grapes can be grown at an economy of scale unknown in the Rhone and France.

4. Syrah from the northern Rhone tends to be more elegant with wines typically exhibiting meaty, smokey, and grilled bacon aromas and flavors. Alcohol generally is between 13-14%. The top Australian examples, coming from the warmer climates of McLaren Vale and Barossa, tend to be jammier and higher in alcohol (in the range of 15-16%). Critics (Francophiles, in other words) often claim these wines are “over the top”. We would ask, however, can you have too much of a good thing? The answer is obviously “no”.

5. In Australia, 4 huge corporations control 90% of the production. Names like Penfolds, Wolf Blass, Rosemount, et.al., we tend to avoid, not that they are bad but more because they lack soul. The importers of Australian wines represented here (Grateful Palate, Epicurean, Southern Starz, Old Bridge Cellars) seek out smaller, independent wineries who take a hands on, artisinal approach to wine making.

The Wines:

1. The Piping Shrike 2002, Barossa $15.99
A discovery of Epicurean Wines (Ben Hammerschlag), this is the closest to Marquis Philips Shiraz that we’ve been able to find. The wine exhibits deep color and ripe fruit characteristics as well as full body.

2. D’Arenberg “The Footbolt” Shiraz 2001, McLaren Vale $17.99
D’Arenberg is one of Australia’s great independent wineries. Each of their wines has its own distinct brand name, the most famous being their renowned “Dead Arm” Shiraz. Their everyday Footbolt has excellent depth and richness and received 90 points in The Wine Advocate.

3. E. Guigal Saint-Joseph “Lieu Dit” 1999 $29.99
This is a single vineyard Syrah from a tenderloin parcel purchased by genius winemaker Marcel Guigal. The label features a portrait of John Lennon in his late Beatle period. 1999 is the finest vintage in the northern Rhone after 1990 and this wine shows why in its ripe fruit, smoky aromatics, and grilled flavors. It can be drunk now or cellared for a few more years.

4. Elderton Shiraz 2001, Barossa $32.99
This is Elderton’s so-called “regular” Shiraz (“Command” is their Reserve bottling). However, it really does not take a back seat to any Shiraz. The fruit is ripe and dense, the flavors concentrated. It should age well for 6-8 years.

5. Tardieu-Laurent, Crozes-Hermitage “Coteaux” 2000 $32.99
The wine was aged for 2 years in 100% new oak barrels and is deeply colored, dense, and in need of several more years of cellaring. Amazingly serious for a wine from this appellation.

6. Longwood Reserve Shiraz 2002, McLaren Vale $36.99
The wine exhibits the layering, color and concentration of the great 2002 vintage.

7. Killibinbin Shiraz 2002, Langhorne Creek $39.99
Langhorne Creek is a bit cooler than Barossa and McLaren Vale. Consequently the wine is not quite as jammy as examples from McLaren Vale and Barossa; rather it is a seamless, more elegant expression of top flight Australian Shiraz.

8. Verset Cornas 1999 $40.99
This is classic Cornas from amazingly steep, terraced vineyards. The Syrah vines here are ancient and the winemaking totally hands-on. The youngest barrel in the cellar is 50 years old.

9. Neyers “Hudson Vineyard” Syrah 2001, Napa Valley $46.99
Our only California representative is sourced from a vineyard renowned for its Syrah and vinified by Ehren Jordan, more well known for his work at Turley.

10. Robert Niero, Cote-Rotie 2001 $49.99
Cote-Rotie is the northern Rhone village which produces the most elegant, complex Syrah but not the most massive (Hermitage wins that honor). This is an excellent example of Cote-Rotie from a fine producer.

11. Mitolo G.A.M. Shiraz, McLaren Vale 2002 $58.99
This winery is just beginning to garner serious attention. This G.A.M. Shiraz received (95-97) points in The Wine Advocate.

12. Fontodi “Case Via” Syrah 1999, Toscana $61.99
This is reputed to be Italy’s finest Syrah (and is the most expensive wine in this tasting). Does it hold up to its French and Ozzie competitors? You be the judge.